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How To Do the Can-Am Outlander Frame Mod


October 1/09

Written by Reidler


Here's the proper way to do the frame mod on a Can-Am Outlander ATV. I believe the Renegade is somewhat similar but I haven't done one here so I don't know.

I use aluminum tube when I do the mod, for a couple reasons. One, because it is light weight, two because it's got more elasticity then steel does (it will straighten out after being bent, where steel just stays bent), and three because it doesn't rust. The tube I use is 1-1/4" square with round corners. The round corner makes it easy to weld the pieces together as it gives you a natural chamfer.

First thing you need to do is remove the rear hitch point, and then remove the frame cap that is welded in there. IMO this is the hardest part of the job. Try not to damage the frame itself when you are cutting the welds. Once you get the cap off, save it because you will have to weld it back in there. You have to clean up all the weld remnants that are inside the frame or they will grab the tubing as you try to slide it in. Once that's done your frame should look like this:

(You can click on a thumbnail to open a larger photo in a new window)


Next thing is to get the tubing ready. I cut the front edge of the tube at 45 deg. and slide it in till stops at the front point of the frame (where it turns and goes up towards the winch). Once you have it firmly seated in there then you can mark the back for cutting. Mark it so the aluminum comes right to the back side of where the cap would be if it were still in there. this will help hold the cap later when you weld it back on. Now take the tube out and use it as a template to make two more pieces. Next weld all three pieces together at about 8" intervals. and grind off your welds so they are flush. You should now have this:




Next thing I do is apply a layer of duct tape over the whole thing. This makes it a little tighter, and acts as a gasket to keep any electrolysis from occurring between the two dissimilar metals. Should look like this:




Now I grease the snot out of the inside of the frame (as far as I can reach) and the outside of the duct tape. This makes it way easier to slide in. Now go ahead and slide in your aluminum as shown below.




Now you can wipe off any excess grease that is left and get ready to weld the cap back on. Clean up the paint on the cap so it doesn't affect your weld. Now lay the cap back in there using the aluminum as a back stop to position it. This keeps the aluminum tube from moving around as well. Keep your welder turned down low and weld the cap back in where you cut it. If there is a gap you can use the aluminum as a bridge to weld over (a fourth benefit to using aluminum). Once you get it all welded up give it the wire brush treatment and a good coat of paint. Should look like this:



Now all you need to do is bolt the hitch point back on and go riding!

One final point: if you are considering doing this mod, it's best to do it right away, before your frame rail gets dinged. If you wait too long it is harder to get the tube to slide in with a dinged rail.

Also, if you feel like this is too much for you to handle, I can do it for you in my shop, Hi-Q Fabrication in Langley, BC. I charge a flat rate of $200 to do it, including materials, assuming your frame isn't all dinged up.

 
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